Sankt Michaeliskirche

Referred to as Hamburg’s most famous church, Sankt Michaeliskirche (St. Michael’s Church) is a modest 132-meter baroque masterpiece offering both a breathtaking view and a breathtaking climb up. (I panted the first quarter of the hour I spent looking out at the city. There’s an elevator, learn from me and take that instead.) Certainly, the panoramic view of this stunning harbor city is worth the work and once I caught my breath I was captured by the staggering scenery.

Sankt Michaeliskirche has been built three times. It was first completed in 1669 and has since been redesigned and renovated, the final time in 1945 to repair bombing damage. The copper-covered spire is a widely recognized feature of Hamburg’s skyline. Hamburg has nine sister cities, all which have a replica of St. Michael’s Church (impressive, huh?).

It has been so (abnormally) hot in Hamburg this month that not even these rooftop green spaces could survive. Oh, AC, how we miss you...

Back on the ground via the elevator, the altar is nearly as stunning as the view from the top. The church offers 2,500 seats and lovely scenery. I always find the beauty of ornate church fixtures mesmerizing and the ones at this altar are no exception.

FOUND: The Perfect Flat

When we signed the lease for our temporary apartment we had to decide how long we would be renting it. We decided to stay for two months assuming that would be more than enough time to pin down a long-term flat. We ignored the situation the first week (rightfully so, I think) and when week two hit we decided to get a move-on. Reg’s co-workers were tremendously helpful throughout our episode of House Hunters International and their initial advice: Get going. The more we asked for advice the more we began to hear stories of nightmarishly lengthy apartment searches, some as long as six months. One German acquaintance described in full detail the 300-meter long line of determined tenants-to-be he had witnessed, all of them waiting for a couple-minute-long walk through of the apartment of their dreams. If they liked it, they would apply. If the landlord liked them best, they would get it. Listening to him my first thought was, This can’t be for real. As he went on and I realized he was, in fact, for real I became weary. My next thought, It’s waaayyy too hot to stand in a line that long right now. Oh, the horror!

So, with countless pieces of advice from Reg’s co-workers and our new American friends we got on the horn and started looking. The website we used is in German (this is funny now but used to be infuriating) and can be described as both overwhelming and incredibly helpful because as a result of using it I now have gray hair, but we also have an apartment.

Many thanks to Google Translator (the first friend I made after I moved here), Reg and I were soon able to decipher the German enough to input our query and have the site furiously spit at us an exhausting list of possible home-sweet-homes. When the first results list offered us over one hundred flats, we realized pretty quickly that we had better narrow down. So, we took to the streets and ventured through all of the burroughs that had been recommended to us. Reg had seen the Alster, a lovely lake situated near downtown, when he came to Hamburg last November and he took me to see it while we were on our hunt. We both agreed that living near it would be ideal. When we had the location, location, location puzzle piece in place we narrowed our search and scheduled some visits.

Some visits turned into twelve visits in nine days. Exhausting, yes, but beneficial because we became more decisive with each flat we saw. After walking up ten sections of stairs in one building I made the executive decision that no elevator = no go. We saw some great flats, too. Early on in our hunt Reg and I visited a great place on a charming street in Harvestehude, a burrough next to the Alster. It’s on the main floor (hallelujah) and sports two terraces, a large living space, bathroom, and bedroom, and a five-minute walk to both the water and street life. For me it was love at first walk-through. We added it to the list of potentials and applied, then diligently continued to set-up visits to additional flats. Deep down I knew, though, that I had left my heart in Harvestehude.

Several days passed before the broker called and offered us the Harvestehude apartment. I couldn’t contain myself—I had to bite my tongue so I didn’t tell her I loved her. After Reg’s co-worker, Ingo, translated the 15-page contract for us over the course of an hour (bless him), it became a done-deal. We move in August 15. (Eek!) Helllllloo, Harvestehude!

living room

bedroom

Wondering what that empty space under the window is for? Well, when we figure out where and how to buy a refrigerator, we'll put it down there.

That' right! Our new home-sweet Hamburg-home comes with not one but THREE lovely terraces just waiting to be beautified.

All we need now are the keys!

Hamburg Looks Great in Green

A German friend of mine recently told me that Hamburg is the greenest city in Germany. This claim intrigued me and I have since learned that 50% of this stunning urban zone is dotted with parks, waterways, forests, and casual green spaces and that 8% of the city's total area is protected. Some reports suggest that Hamburg actually has more trees than people. (Did someone really count?) In our three weeks here I have come across many of these green spaces, sometimes planned, but mostly when I've misplaced myself. Luckily, these discoveries make being lost a lot less discouraging.

Even more than for being green, Hamburg is known for being a harbor city, and is actually the second largest in Europe. Altona's Balcony, a nickname for a casual green space on the harbor in the burrough of Altona, is a perfect arrangement of Hamburg's green sites and harbor sites. Referred to as a balcony because it offers a view of the harbor filled with larger-than-life equipment that is surprisingly nice to look, Altona's Balcony is a great find.

No green space would be whole without a cafe or biergarten, and lucky for the many happy citizens lounging in the park, Altona's Balcony offers both.

Eateries display their daily specials on chalkboards outside their doors. On this day, Altona's Balcony was offering organic dumplings with greens and pesto, sausage with butterbread and potato salad, cheese-filled tomatoes, gemachte (a noodly, oniony, cheesy sensation all mixed together in a casserole dish and baked until golden and bubbly), and mozzarella, tomato, and greens salad. Two words: yum-o.

I found this hidden haven in the burrough of Eimsbuttel. It, too, boasted a cafe-biergarten.

2:00p.m.

Now this is what I'm talking about.

Who could argue that this strip of green, directly across the street from the City Hall in our burrough, is a perfect place to sunbathe?

Ise(am loving this)markt

Produce stands are plentiful throughout Hamburg. For every café, there is one produce stand (or maybe half of a produce stand, actually— there are cafes everywhere). I could not have been happier when I realized that I can find any fruit or veggie I could ever need right on the corner of any street. Plus, if I forget to buy something, I just have to walk another two blocks and I can pick up my forgotten treasure at the next produce stand. (Score!) This, along with the fact that I bit the bullet and now walk through the grocery stores with my German dictionary, has helped to break down the language barrier when it comes to eating.

And then there was Isemarkt. Of the bajillion things I have found to do in Hamburg, I so declare this place my fav. This gem of a farmers’ market stretches proudly across one mile directly underneath a U track and is adorned with tasty treats, hungry Hamburgers, and cheerful sellers all ready to fill our baskets with home-grown and handmade delights. So, every Tuesday and Friday morning I gladly let them.

Organic food of all kinds is available, as are handmade pastas, oh-so-pretty sweets, delish-looking cheeses (“Just cut off the mold!” they tell me), dazzling produce, flowers of all varieties, a knock-your-socks off opera singer and her accompanying accordion player (really), and, expectedly, at least five cafes.

Because of this showcase of ultimate deliciousness I pop like popcorn out of bed on Tuesdays and Fridays and do not even need to check the U schedule before boarding. Isemarkt is my territory now and I know all the secrets. I learned the hard way that berries will stain every inch of the cavity of your favorite cloth grocery bag from Brazil if you do not pack your purchases properly, so I now go armed with a cute-as-can-be wicker basket…just like the few hundred other Isemarkt supporters. The aisle becomes stressfully crowded with hundreds of folks and hundreds of hard baskets. The prices are well worth the fight, though. With organic bell peppers and avocadoes at less than 50 cents euro a piece and monstrous bags of local, organic arugula for one euro, I’m surprised police aren’t patrolling.

While I strive to offer 100% of my grocery budget to Isemarkt I can’t help but to pick up a few things from the good ‘ole produce stands. Are they stunning? No. 1 mile in length? No. Darling? Yes. I suppose darling warrants a few purchases here and there, too.

Planten un Blomen (translation: my hiding spot)

When I decided to write this post I sat for quite some time considering a perfect introduction. I wanted to be sure that readers would grasp the beauty of the magical place I had discovered—Hamburg’s largest botanical garden, Planten un Blomen. Much time passed and I was still without a genius introduction. What I did figure out, though, was that while words will let me describe the feeling of serenity that took over me as soon as I entered this place, and pictures can help me show you what washed away the stress of city life, in the end maybe fessing up and admitting that I am not able to find the right words to describe its beauty will probably tell you more about its charm than any other words could.




Whenever I visit a new place when the weather is warm I scour welcome brochures for the botanical gardens. Once located, I immediately plan my retreats to these tranquil places. It is remarkable that they remain as still as they do, composed even when located in the midst of bustling metropolitan concrete. As is the case for Planten un Blomen, a 47-acre (no joke) masterpiece settled barely west of the heart of Hamburg.

Now that Reggie is working and we’re beginning to feel settled, Hamburg feels less like a vacation and more like our new home. With this progress comes the realization that we’re here on our own. We’re happy, excited, and proud—but we’re still on our own. On this particular day this thought crept its way closer to my heart, making my discovery of Planten un Blomen and the serenity it brought me a true gift.

Ode to Street Musicians

Dear Hamburg Street Musicians,

I am eternally in awe of you. Your music is as moving as your willingness to share it with us. At all times I am excited to see you and no matter how many times I've been lost via public transit the day of your performance, your sound turns my frown upside down. Thank you for taking the risk to display your raw talent in front of so many folks. May your hats always be full of euro and pride.

To the phenomenal singer at the corner of Schulterblatt and Sternschanze:
Your ability to draw a crowd of 50 eager Hamburgers at midnight on Sunday astounds me. They knew you were coming and waited for you. Well, you can add us to the list. See you Sunday.

Here is a short video I took while attempting to capture this man's awesome sound. It's short, dark, and without a good angle, but I hope you'll agree that hearing him sing is worth putting up with my abysmal vid skills.

Fantastic, isn't he? Did you catch my ooo-ing and wow-ing in the background?

Upon my multiple-hour stroll through Planten un Blomen Botanical Garden on Wednesday my ears led me to a Musikgarten--my first. Here I was fortunate enough to hear a stellar performance by the Polizei Orchester, an orchestra comprised of police officers...at 3:00 on a Wednesday afternoon (whaaat?). Interestingly enough, there were many folks in attendance (though most were gulping ice cream in the shadows). At first the time of the performance baffled me, but remembering the stories I have heard about the lounge-ily way some Germans spend their mid-day it all made sense. It made even more sense once I sat down and took in the experience. The orchestra put on an incredible show. Once they finished their last set, Elvis' biggest hits, they were rewarded with a monstrous round of applause--including clapping from the little ones playing soccer on the shore. I think the entire park felt the music.

Though the Polizei Orchester does not perform on the street, they certainly deserve recognition here.

Out of respect I didn't want to take pictures of the many solo acts that perform in the U, the S, (above and underground transit systems) and on streets. One two-man act in particular deserves a shout out: these two twenty-somethings enter the S and proudly announce themselves with, "Ladies and Gentleman...Showtime!" One sings English favs while the other plays the guitar while refusing to make eye contact with the crowd. As quickly as they enter they exit at the next stop, always to my disapppointment, and typically before I can get my money out and in their bag. Keep it coming, boys--I promise to have my euro in hand next time.

Hamburger Häuser

Hamburg, like any urban center, is decorated with an appealing variety of houses. Renting in Germany is favorable for a tenant because it is terribly (or wonderfully) difficult for property owners to raise rent. Because of this it is common to rent and never buy property. A second thing that transcends culture is the cost of property in a city. So, Hamburger (yes, you read that right) apartments vary from the ever-so-not-funny shoebox-size to lavish and sprawling. Reg and I are on the hunt for something in between to call home once we move from our temporary housing. Our hunt has taken us to the far corners of Hamburg. On the way we've stumbled upon some gorgeous homes. Some fit into the shoebox category but are supported with a bustling streetlife just underneath, others deserve their own street.

Certainly, I have to give these beauties credit for being stunning. But, at the risk of sounding like a stickler, without AC they're no Miss America. It has been H-O-T in Hamburg this week and even the places that boast those two letters Americans have grown conditioned to expect (small pun intended)--AC--don't have much to offer in terms of helping Hamburgers to keep heatstroke at bay. Windows are an option, yes, but since screens are essentially nonexistent in Germany I hesitate because I have no idea how to handle German creepy crawlies. But, a steamy 95F on Saturday forced me to break down and leave all the windows open through night. The verdict: Germany has a lot less mini-flying creatures than Michigan does. Phew.