Lange Nacht der Museen

For one night each April nearly fifty Hamburg museums remain open until 2:00am as part of Hamburg's Long Night of the Museums event. I have been looking forward to this event for months and was THRILLED when the day finally arrived. Don't let the word 'museum' fool you--there was nothing boring about this art bonanza. Live music, food and drinks, and even fifties make-up styling made the event a complete success.




The Rathaus, Hamburg's elegant Town Hall, was transformed into a chic venue alive with live music, dancing, and many happy Hamburgers.




Never having had toured the Rathaus, we explored every room.





Parliament



Underneath the Rathaus is Restaurant Parlament, a trendy place that gets me excited about a visit.

 

Mary and a very beautiful and very BIG painting of the original Rathaus.



Next up: Bucerius Kunst Forum, A modern art museum located right next to the Rathaus. This museum was rockin' a fifties theme which was a tribute to the German artist on display, Gerhard Richter. I am a lover of all art, even the most unique, but Mr. Richter's art caught me by surprise:

After touring the gallery, we headed upstairs for live music and...



Fifties make-up! Courtest of Aveda we got plastered with lots and lots of eye make-up.



After getting our fix of fifties shenanigans, we moved onto Diechtorhallen to get a taste of more modern art, and, of course, some late night snacks.

After getting a good dose of modern art we attempted to make it to Beatlemania, a museum dedicated to the Beatles' history in Hamburg, but we didn't make it in time. Who would have thought eight hours wouldn't have been enough to see all we wanted to see? They can count on my attendance next year!

Underground History

Because of it's large port and oil and submarine industry, Hamburg was attacked ruthlessly during World War II. An attack during the last week of July created one of the biggest fires of the war, killing nearly 43,000 civilians and injuring 37,000. The attack was was at the time the heaviest assault in the history of aerial warfare and been called the Hiroshima of Germany. Because it was considered by Hamburg political leaders to be an especially endangered city, hundreds of bunkers were built throughout Hamburg to protect its citizens.

To get a taste of Hamburg life during the war, our club took a tour of Bunker Museum Hamburg, a small underground bunker not far from our part of town. The volunteers of the museum take pride in their exquisite restoration of this 1940-41 underground 4-room raid shelter--as well as their ability to present this important story to the world. Every aspect of this unique structure has been tastefully restored to it's original state, allowing for the building itself to serve as the central piece of this memorable exhibit.





Luckily a fellow member, who had lived through the war in Hamburg, led us to the entrance. I'm not sure I would have found this on my own as it is tucked away quietly in the yard of a church.



A short trip took us 15-feet underground where we had the opportunity to explore the shelter the way the people of Hamm saw it, including 3-feet thick reinforced concrete walls, a gas-proof lock, as well as personal memoirs and photographs.

When necessary, 100 people could fit into this room. It was common for the electricity lines to have been knocked down and that left people standed together in the dark surrounded by the sounds of war.

 

Our tour guide (and a member willing to translate) told us the story of the effects the war had on the city. A recording of an attack including screaming and sirens, while we sat in the dark, was powerful.

Beds used for childbirth

In the rare occasion that electricity was working, this radiator could be used to heat the room.

A child's gas mask

First aid kids for homes and bunkers

As I saw the pictures of the destruction and listened to the recorded sirens, it occurred to me that the people that were affected were just ordinary people. Christine, a member who was 5-10 years old during the war in Hamburg, has strong memories of the event but remembers one thing in particular: if bombing started prior to midnight the children had to attend school the following day, and if it started after midnight they had the day off. As I recognize over and over again, kids are the same all over the world.
 
This experiene is one I am happy to have had the chance to be a part of. Like so many experiences Europe has offered me, the tour of Bunker Museum Hamburg reminds me how fortunate I am to have grown up during a peaceful time in history, as well as how hard Europe has had to fight to survive.
 

Athens

Most of my life I have been teased for declaring spinach pie, greek salad, and olives my favorite foods. Looks of surprise, smirks, and name calling are often present as I proudly pronounce my admiration for these Mediterranean delights. I would gladly eat all of these--on one big plate--each and every day and I can say with certainty that I'd never tire of these Greek goodies.


It will be no surprise to anyone that within several hours of stepping foot into Athens I was settled down behind a great big Greek salad, fork and knife in hand, smile on my face, savoring the satisfaction I felt with the authenticity in front of me. Admittedly, I was slightly confused by the lack of lettuce. Nevertheless, I had trusted the Greeks to fill my belly for years and had no intention of swaying course now. I ate slowly and deliberately, making sure each bite included all the necessary flavors, and made that salad last and last.



perfect bread with olive tapenade



...and traditional iced Greek coffee, which, like the olive oil, tasted like liquid gold.

Much to my surprise I didn't love the salad the way I had expected to. Even though the tomatoes tasted like actual tomatoes, which is always a nice surprise, and the olive oil tasted like liquid gold, the tried and true Greek salad from The French Laundry back home in Fenton leaves me more satisfied than the Greek's version.


Certainly, theres much more to Athens than the food. Reggie had to work our first full day in the city and because I wanted to enjoy the big attractions with him I resolved to wandering around the city center on my own. I was not disappointed.

Sure, Athens is a busy city...

But there are plenty of oppportunities to relax and enjoy.

Great shops in Athens are plentiful. Chocolate, wine, and women's clothing boutiques decorate the city.

 One of the many chocolate shops I visited had this adorable wine collection in it's lower level. Because I predicted that deciding on which two I wanted to bring home could take an hour, I set a ten-minute time limit for myself and miraculously I got out in time.

Black, Brown, Gray, and a Splash of Navy doesn't apply to Athens.

Who knew?  If I had found an item under 300 euro I may have even bought something from Detroit.

Sparty?! Are you around here somewhere, too?!

Seeing corn-on-the-cob as street food was a first for me and seemed to be a popular hit with the street crowds.

With all the arches in Athens, why do the golden arches attract THIS many visitors?

When window shopping and treat sampling led to an appetite, my shopping bags and I re-routed to a search for brunch. While I had sampled the Greek salad and Baklava I had yet to eat spinach pie. I wanted a place filled with locals and was pointed to a teensy place a block up. I tend to have high hopes for tiny restaurants because in order to be that small and stay in business they must get a LOT of customers. So, after deliberating for some (yes, just some) time I settled on a piece of spinach and feta pie. Getting through the line and outside seemed to take an eternity. When I finally got to a safe spot and got my prize out of the bag I gazed at it adoringly. I knew it wouldn't disappoint.

I'm sad to report it was actually not tasty at all, nor was the second one I tried. I soon realized I prefer American Greek food much more than Greek Greek food. And I thought I had finally stopped feeling like a tourist...


Once I had the notion that I MUST EAT EVERYTHING IN SIGHT out of my head I was ready to see the big attractions. And of course, there is no attraction bigger than the one and only Acropolis.

One in seven residents of Greece live in Athens, making the population a whopping five million people big. Though it's recorded history spans 3,400 years and it's current economic state is a nightmare, Athens is a cosmopolitan metropolis decorated with architecture dating back to 445 BC. Since the completion of the Acropolis in 432 BC Athens has developed around it. From many places in Athens you can look up and see the Acropolis glaring back at you. In many ways this superb structure is the epitome of standing the test of time.

It often seems to be that great European sights require the same two things: money and a steep hike to the entrance. Waaaaay at the top of this climb Reggie and I found ourselves standing at the gates to the Acropolis.

On yet another hike, this time from the entrance gate to the top, we came across some spectacular sights:

The Propylaia is a marble entrance structure at the top of the Acropolis complex.

Athens is not short on columns.

After passing through two sets of gorgeous marble gates, and snapping many pictures along the way, the structure we were waiting for was in sight. Shimmering golden white in the sunlight, the Parthenon is as sophisticated as you would expect a structure that has influenced architecture more than any other building in history to be.

Acropolis means "high city" and was used as a citadel when under attack. The Parthenon is the most well-known structure within the complex and often referred to as the most iconic building in the world. It has influenced architecture in practically every Western country. It was used to store raw gold from tribituary states and was dedicated to Athena, whom the people of Athens considered their protectors. The creation of the Parthenon, a feat incredibly difficult to wrap my brain around, began in 449 BC and was completed in 438 BC.

Along with the striking Parthenon, the Erechtheum sits proudly on the Acropolis. This magnificent feat was completed in 407 BC and legend has it that it's the place Poseidon left his trident marks and Athena's olive tree grew during their competition to name the city.

The ground of the Acropolis is covered with broken pieces of structures, some so worn by visitors that they are dangerously slippery.

Reggie and I walked around the complex for a long time. Many attempts to wrap my brain around the unmatchable history of this place were unsuccessful, but we enjoyed our tour nevertheless.



The Acropolis offers the best view one could ask for.



Now THAT's mixing old with new.

1,000 Places to See Before You Die includes two Athens sites: the Acropolis and the National Archaeology Museum, which houses more masterpieces of Ancient Greek art than any other musem in the world. As soon as we checked the Acropolis off of our list, we headed straight to item number two, stopping just long enough to eat lunch.

Retsina wine is a local commodity. It tastes like a mildly sweet white wine with an indescribable twist. For me, (and only me) it was love and first sip.

Balsamic olives, tomatoes, and goat's milk feta on Greek bread over spinach

Pork schwarma

Not hard to guess who had what, is it?



National Archaeology Museum: the treasure house of Athens



Pottery and sculpture in this wing of the museum date from 400 BC.

Funerary mask of a bearded king, believed to date to the 15th century.



The fact that this statue includes traditional Greek headgear is a clue that it was created between 200-250 BC.



Even the most damaged sculptures are indescribably interesting.

This statue of Poseidon is star of the ground floor of the museum, circa 5th century BC. It shows the perfectly balanced body of an athlete ready to launch his trident.

This detailed statue of Athena once stood at the top of the Acropolis. I know what you're thinking: How did they DO that way back then?!

Again, there is no shortage of pillars in Athens. Nor marble.

Primitive furniture



My personal favorite: the absolutely gorgeous pottery dating as far back as 412 BC.


It is no surprise to me that Patricia Schultz included this great museum in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. Certainly, it's a crucial part of the journey to understanding the magnficently triumphant (and old) Greek civilization.



We opted to eat our last Athens' dinner in style so we hunted for the coolest possible spot. And we found it-on top of that mountain at the back of the picture above. Oh yeah, we went all out.

The taxi ride to the restaurant could be compared to a cross between an extreme motocross competition and Cedar Point's Magnum roller coaster. When we finally reached our destination (I was convinced we would see clouds upon exiting the taxi), we were told we would have a ten-minute wait. Okay, but we did have a reservation. Then Reggie realized I was not in the know about what was happening and explained that yes, even though the taxi felt like it was driving vertically, we aren't there yet. We need to take the funiculara to the top.

The what?! C'mon.

Really? Are you sure that isn't a made-up word?

Apparently, this is a funiculara.

The baklava with mastiha ice cream and white wine was just as tasty as the views were stunning.

Sitting at the top of Athens, sharing a dessert I have adored all of my life with Reggie, made for an absolutely perfect evening.












Our last day in Athens was short, but allowed enough time for one last meal. A local suggested a low-key traditional taverna upon our request. And are we glad he did.

I had forgotten how nice good customer service felt until I came to Athens. Each of the six exmployees welcomed us personally and took our rush request to heart without offense. They created a delish meal quickly, called for a cab, and shook our hands before we waved goodbye. I would still be there eating if it was up to me.



Salad with drool-worthy balsamic dressing, a glass of iced Ouzo, and stuffed grape leaves that must have been made by someone's Greek grandmother. Omnom.


Saying good bye to Athens after a fun-filled visit with happy, full stomachs was like the dessert to a perfectly seasoned meal. Although it is a city distraught over political scandals, tremendous debt, and high, unmatched citizen-need, Athens treats it's guests with unending smiles, uncomparably significant sights, and desserts fit for, well, for mythological Goddesses.

A traditional Greek dessert similar to baklava but without nuts. This version was covered with chocolate, of course.